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jako
Registered: 10/06/09
Posts: 9

    10/06/09 at 05:23 PM
Reply with quote#1

I will be spending two days in Salvador, November 8-9th. I will be on my way to my condo in Joao Pessoa (Paraiba). I'm from Montreal, Canada. Any suggestion for some things not to be missed? I am a music lover and photographer. I was already thinking of going to Bale Folklorico de Bahia, Monday evening. BTW, regarding photography, is it so dangerous to use a camera in Salvador? or is it mainly a urban legend and you have to be careful like anywhere else?
Thanks for your time. Jacques.
Bahiana77
Registered: 05/20/07
Posts: 233

    10/06/09 at 05:53 PM
Reply with quote#2

Awhile ago, near the Elevador, I saw a blond guy walking down the street with his big SLR hanging around his neck. I was tempted to grab it and run, just because it would have been soooooooooooo easy.
The 'urban legend' is about the absolutely heedless tourists.
jako
Registered: 10/06/09
Posts: 9

    10/06/09 at 08:52 PM
Reply with quote#3

Thanks for the quick comment. Yes, I am one big and old Gringo (Hemingway style) and yes I use a big SLR. How else can we shoot good pictures. So the question remains. Can we shoot pictures safely in Pelo? I do it all the time in Joao Pessoa where people are happy to be in front of the lens and give me email address to get the pics.
jako
Registered: 10/06/09
Posts: 9

    10/06/09 at 09:21 PM
Reply with quote#4

Eh...vous parlez Français en plus...
shiftpro
Registered: 10/29/08
Posts: 14

    10/07/09 at 02:22 PM
Reply with quote#5

Jako tudo bem?
Listen my friend if you are in Joao Pessoa you must make your way down to Praia Tambaba.
It's a bit south of the city, about 25 minutes. If you follow the road through Jacuma it will
take you down to Tambaba. There is a little restaurant/pousada on the top of the hill just
before you go down to the the praia. It is called Arca de Bilu and you should stop by and
say hi to Marco Bilu and Rosanna. Tell them Bennett says ola and that he now lives in Bahia.
There are several spectacular beaches in this area.  

shiftpro
Registered: 10/29/08
Posts: 14

    10/07/09 at 03:20 PM
Reply with quote#6

About the camera...
It really depends on you my friend. Like what's your constitution? If you are stupid and/or
fearful you will get hit. If you carry yourself with confidence and purpose you will probably
be just fine. I personally would not hesitate to enter a fevela with an expensive camera, but
I wasn't always this brave. Needless to say it helps to speak portuguese. I am still learning
the language and will be for years to come but at least what I know I say very well so just
a few words from my mouth and they think I'm from Brazil. I also pack a good tan (ha you thought I was going to say something else!) so I can fool the locals into thinking I'm also a local. It doesn't mean you're safe if you're local, they get robbed even more frequently than tourists. It just gives me a bit of an advantage I believe.I normally berate young men that ask for money. They are shocked by this and feel very ashamed. I don't leave them in this state as I usually give them some advice and a handshake and 'boa sorte amigo'.  I've made friends with guys that tried to rob me in Forteleza.

gwizz00
Registered: 06/19/07
Posts: 9

Contact using MSN

    10/07/09 at 05:35 PM
Reply with quote#7

Oi Jako.
The question that you ask depends on many variables. Will you be taking pics during the day or night? Which neighborhood or area are you thinking about photographing? Do you speak Portuguese? Mood of transportation? Are you going alone? Also, your color and build can be factors, in trouble finding you.
 I can only talk about my experiences in Salvador, and what I observe when I'm there. Obviously taking pics during the day is safer. Trouble areas during the night: lower city near the elevator and going along the coast with  your left side to the ocean; upper city from Pelo to San Antonio; Areas in Campo Grande; Barra from the farol to Porto da Barra along avenida sete. I think these are the worst for trouble, but you could find it anywhere, if someone sees you with something they want. ...and don't even think about the favelas. I've been in the favelas on a few occasions, but I would never recommend it unless someone who LIVES there takes you in. What I suggest is finding someone who speaks Portuguese and knows the city. There are some honest taxi drivers that can take you or tell you where to go. Also I have some contacts in Salvador that are honest and I can vouch for them. One is a woman Named Ana, who rent apts for tourist, and the other is Domingos, who runs a cambio and travel agency in Pelo.
----Not to be missed:the bale, Morro de Sao Paulo, Praia do Forte, Mercado Modelo across the street from the elevator in the lower city(remember to go below the modelo to see an area where they kept the slaves.), Igreja Bonfim, Casa Olodum(they play some Sundays in pelo, but I don't know if the still perform on Sundays.) I know you can't see everything, because you only have two days, but get in as much as you can.

Also there was a reply about fooling them into thinking you're brazilian. Trust me they can tell if you're brazilian or not! ...Of course when you open your mouth. I don't care how well you speak portuguese. Another way is the way you walk. The type of shoes you wear. ...and etc.

I now this was a long post, but I can talk for hours about Salvador. I love the city, with the good and bad.
I hoped this helped; if you need info or contacts, let me know.
Axe.


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Kenny
jako
Registered: 10/06/09
Posts: 9

    10/08/09 at 01:01 PM
Reply with quote#8

You guys from the Forum are fantastic!
Thanks to all for advice and virtual companionship. I will try not to embarrass you by being mugged in Salvador. After traveling pretty much around the globe and living in NYC for six years, that would be really bad Karma. Even if statistically speaking, it should happened to me soon!
BTW, were are the women on this forum?...This seems to be a guy's toy. Woman's POV should be interesting too.
This type of forum activity remembers me a recent episode, 4 years ago, when I discovered Joao Pessoa through the same type of Expats chat (British ones in this case). I was so curious that I traveled there...and bought an apartment after a 3 week stay!
I know Tambaba beach (but not the nudist part! should I?) and the small restaurant up the hill also. OK Shiftpro, I will say hello next time to Marco Bilu and Rosanna.
Personally, my favorite remote beach (20 minutes from JP) is Tabatinga. Quite often, I have a taxi drop me in the morning and pick me up in the evening. If I see more than ten people during the day, it must be Caipirinha making me seeing double.
I have a few pictures on my Flickr Brasil page for those of you who do not know Joao Pessoa area. See also picture of Cabo Branco at the bottom of this message.
A few words about me before we go any further. I am born in France and live in Quebec, Canada, since 68. My wife Linda works for the UN, and we just spend six years in NYC. I am retired now. I hate this word. It sounds like being terminated by you know who. I prefer aposentado. This word sounds deliciously languorous, something like time passing by when in good company.
When I was a kid in Paris, I had a friend who was lucky enough to be friend with a Brazilian girl (a stewardess, whoa!). She was bringing him (and his lucky friends) strange and fascinating music; it was before bosa-nova frenzy and the Stan Getz/Astrud craziness that lasted for years. If you love Stan Getz like me, don't miss his last recording (he passed away a few weeks later), done live in Copenhagen, with wonderful pianist Kenny Barron, and nobody else! It is so intimate and moving. Title is: People time. A plain masterpiece. Barron also signed Canta-Brasil, with Trio da Paz.
As you can see, I love music; from all ages, types and countries. With a special kinship with world music and Jazz. When active, I was a film and television director, doing mostly documentaries. I have also some pro experience in photography, writing (in my native language : French), advertising, marketing and web site production.
Speaking of the web, I think members of this forum should publish a collective do's and dont's about Salvador on one masterful Google map. That could be so helpful. I have played with the idea of doing the same type of web site that Pardal is doing in Salvador, for Joao Pessoa. I still collaborate with some sites and have privileged access to servers. But it is probably too early as so few English speaking people are hanging around JP. Furthermore, arts, music, culture and history are not exactly at the same level as in Salvador. Nonetheless, I have seen a  local hero in 2006, Sivuca, accordion player and composer, a few months before he died. Impressive musician indeed. His piece Feira de Mangaio, sing by Clara Nunes, is quite something. And what about the Symphonic version of the same song...impressive. He had also played for the French biggest Brazilian-friendly singer: Pierre Barouh, who sang chabadabada (it was Brazilian to French listeners!) and plays the dead husband in the legendary first film by Claude Lelouch : un homme et une femme (a man and a woman). Très nouvelle vague 1966! It was also the first time French people saw a Mustang!

If it is possible, it will be a pleasure for me to meet with you during my short stay in Salvador (November 8-9). You can also be my guest anytime you feel like in Joao Pessoa, or Summertime in Quebec!
To finish like one of you suggest me : boa sorte amigos!



Bahiana77
Registered: 05/20/07
Posts: 233

    10/08/09 at 03:02 PM
Reply with quote#9

One woman's POV is above (Bahiana).

Are you in league with these guys (from Gringoes.com)?
http://paraibaparadise.com/
jako
Registered: 10/06/09
Posts: 9

    10/08/09 at 05:49 PM
Reply with quote#10

Sorry Bahiana. Now I know about the gender.
Thanks for the site. It must be quite new. As always, we see no names. Only the proverbial WE! Non profit organizations are good in principle, but what are the real intentions? 100% public service? I doubt. Real Estate is probably the under current. Something to sell for sure. It's a lot of work to do (and run!) such a site. People must be paid at one point as it is not a labor of love! I will follow on them. I spend only three months a year in JP; not enough to be really involved in local activities. I definitely have a better feeling with bahia-online.

jazztech
Avatar / Picture

Registered: 08/04/08
Posts: 162

Contact using MSN

    10/08/09 at 07:24 PM
Reply with quote#11

Jako, you are my hero! 'When I grow up, I want to be just like you'. I want to (sorry) retire somewhere in Brasil. Far enough away from the city in/by some village, and yet close enough to go to the city when I want.

As far as taking pictures in Pelo, I think a man of your stature can handle himself anywhere, favela or otherwise. I'm sure you can find a couple of guy friends or a couple of pro guides to go with you and watch each others back as you sight see and take pictures. Did you practice French foot fighting as a kid/young man? And like me, you have that beautiful Brasilian tan, so I think you will not look out of place.

It's funny, I had about the same experience on the beach in Itapoa. I was snorkeling the calm pools there (extremely relaxing) and as I was coming back to the beach, a little girl was just fascinated with my gear. So I looked at her Mom and she was alright with it, and I put the mask on her, tightened it up and she immediately wet under water, showing no fear. After making adjustments and adding the snorkel and telling her how to use the gear she was bobbing up and down for about twenty minutes until her Mother decided it was time 'to leave that poor man alone' and called her up to where she was at. They did not speak English and my Portuguese, at the time (and now), sucks, but we still were able to communicate just fine.

I feel the exact same way you feel about this site. And the owner of this site, rumor has it, he ain't half bad either. And I thought I was long winded.


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